Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Le Regulateur Dusk to Dawn 85248NN88.BGA090 Limited Edition Full Set

Description

A regulator with a personality

Louis Erard has built a run of collaborations with independent watchmakers around its regulator layout, where hours, minutes and seconds each get their own display. For this one the brand handed the dial to Konstantin Chaykin, the Russian independent best known for his “Joker” watches with expressive faces. Chaykin kept the regulator logic and gave it a character. The hours sit inside a bloodshot eye at 12 o’clock, a nod to the Slavic evil-eye idea, the long red minute hand snakes across a black wave-pattern dial, and the small seconds at 6 o’clock reads as an open mouth.

The result is the “Dusk to Dawn,” a 39mm watch limited to 178 pieces. The black PVD case keeps the focus on the dial, and the red accents carry through to the strap stitching, the strap lining and the tinted sapphire caseback.

Movement

Inside is the Sellita SW266-1, a self-winding regulator caliber, visible through a red-tinted sapphire exhibition caseback with a skeletonized Louis Erard rotor. It’s a proven Swiss workhorse, which keeps servicing straightforward for a watch with a very unusual face.

Condition, in plain terms

We photograph every flaw we can find, and we’d rather you hear it from us first. The case, crystal and dial present cleanly. The strap is where the wear is: the red lining has creasing and light marks near the buckle holes, and the keepers have softened with use. The signed black PVD buckle is in good order.

We checked it on our timegrapher before listing: +13 seconds per day, 314 degrees of amplitude and a 0.2 ms beat error. Strong amplitude and a tight beat error point to a healthy movement. The rate is running a little fast, which is normal for a pre-owned mechanical watch and can be fine-tuned at a service if you want it closer to zero.

What’s included

• Louis Erard presentation box and outer sleeve
• Louis Erard travel pouch and card wallet
• Warranty card, reference 85248NN88, dated 10-2023
• Certificate of authenticity, Limited Edition of 178
• Louis Erard thank-you card and branded cloth
• eBay Authenticity Guarantee card from a previous sale

Specifications

• Brand: Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin
• Model: Le Regulateur “Dusk to Dawn”
• Reference: 85248NN88.BGA090
• Limited edition: 178 pieces
• Case: 39mm stainless steel, black PVD coating
• Crystal: sapphire, with sapphire exhibition caseback (red tinted)
• Water resistance: 50 meters (5 bar)
• Movement: Sellita SW266-1, automatic regulator
• Dial: black wave pattern, hours in eye subdial at 12, small seconds at 6, central minute hand
• Strap: black textured leather, red stitching and lining, 20mm, signed black PVD pin buckle
• Papers: warranty card dated 10-2023
• Condition: pre-owned, strap shows wear (see photos)
• Timegrapher: +13 s/d, 314 degrees, 0.2 ms

Buying from Dom’s

Every watch we sell is inspected and timed before it’s listed, and the photos show the actual watch you’ll receive. If you have questions about this piece, want a video, or are looking for a specific reference, call or text (346) 440-0164 or reach us through our contact page.